We could have sang all night...

Just the other night, Sean and I were the guests of honor at a dinner at the best restaurant in DanYang. Both Principles and Vice-Principals of our schools attended along with our two hosts, Victor and Cynthia, and several other prestigious teachers from our Province. It was a very special night and although true to form here in China, we had very little notice and were told only two other people were coming, the evening ended up being a large affair filled with delicious dishes, lots of laughter, smoking, and many toasts with wine to our new friendships and good wishes for a Happy New Year.

Our hosts picked us up outside our apartment in a cold, drizzling rain and before we knew it we were walking upstairs into a beautifully decorated restaurant. By the time we entered our private dining room several dishes were already placed on the infamous glass “Lazy Susan” that sits in the center of the large round table. There was some sort of jellied cucumber, dried shrimps, Beijing duck, pork slices, and other dishes that we knew were appetizers.

Sean and I had brushed up on our Chinese culture with respect to the different customs and traditions to expect during our dinner, but we were both a bit nervous considering the importance of the guests at our table. We were soon put at ease by our hosts who translated for us (the other Principles and Vice-Principals did not speak English) and helped us with some particulars of the meal and the 'hot topics' in China did not come up; just friendly conversation about us and the country and the New Year, etc.

In China, no one can eat from a dish until the guest of honor takes some first. Sean and I were the guests of honor this evening so this made it very difficult to refuse any dish, even the ones that looked like some gelatinous glob of goo. We ended up whispering back and forth as to who would try what. Since all eyes were on us, it was hard to fake eating anything.

I was even goaded into trying what was referred to as "baby chicken" and that's exactly what it looked like. I later found out after many of them had a good laugh that it was pigeon. Too late, I already had eaten what I have previously referred to as a rat with wings (under my breath to Sean of course). I was assured that these were farm raised… as if that made any difference to me. Honestly though, it did taste like chicken. I even ate dried shrimps, shell and all (but minus the crunchy head). Sean liked them, but I prefer my shrimp plump, without the shell and with cocktail sauce! They did have pork steaks cooked especially for us which were much appreciated because they were very tasty.

Sean gagged quietly under his breath as he was prodded into eating his favorite – soft Tofu. Apparently there is both hard and soft in the big bowl, but he picked the soft. Neither of us likes Tofu but it was his turn to be adventurous and he ate it and did not spit it out.

Another thing about the Chinese meals, there are no napkins. You have no opportunity to spit something out politely, in fact if anything comes out of the mouth in China it goes back on the plate or if there is not room they simply spit it onto the table, or the floor.

We were just thankful when someone had a toast and we could wash our mouth with wine.

For a nice dinner like this, we had our choice of beverages: either warm corn juice or warm nut milk. And along with these everyone gets a glass of wine. The problem is, it is custom to only drink from your wine glass after you make a toast. So you can imagine how many toasts are happening every minute or so at a large Chinese dinner.

Now the Chinese love to toast! They will toast anything. And if they tap your glass with theirs or if they tap the table from across the room to you, that means that you must drink the entire contents of your glass and then show them that your glass is empty. As the wine went down easier and easier, our hosts and guests got louder and laughter and smiles filled up the room - along with thick clouds of smoke.

The more they eat and drink, the more the Chinese like to smoke. Everyone in the country smokes! I was offered at least four cigarettes during dinner and it’s nice of them because they want to give us anything they can as a token of friendship and cigs seem to work best. Cigarettes are a status symbol here and the price of a pack is always a source of pride for whoever is offering one of their tobacco treasures. As one of the Principles was bragging that his pack was the best in our province, and everyone agreed wholeheartedly, and that they cost 65 yuan a pack (most packs are 5 - 10 yuan), I couldn't help but be reminded of the government official that was just recently fired because he wore a watch that was too expensive and he walked around smoking cigarettes that cost 165 yuan a pack. That cigarette did taste good though!

We made our way through all the food and all the way to the fruit plate without insulting anybody or sending bones or food across the room so we felt the dinner was a wild success. We are also very thankful that they are obviously grateful to have us teaching at their schools.

The last thing to be served is usually fruit but they served us Chinese Porridge, called Congee, first. It is supposed to settle your stomach and help you to digest the food that you just ate. It is a thick milky-like soup with a substance in the middle which has the consistency of mashed potatoes. It is served warm. The smell alone will make you toss your cookies. I managed to take two spoonfuls but I saw Sean visibly wince and apparently he is irrevocably damaged by the experience. He swears if he ever smells that, or Tofu, again he will wretch violently.

Well now that we were giddy from drinking wine where do you think we went next??? Yes that is right… we went to sing Karaoke at the local KTV. Ok, not all of us went. It was our two hosts, Victor and Cynthia, our Vice-Principle, a Principles wife, and us. Sean and I had a previous experience walking into a KTV but it didn't provide much information.

A KTV looks like a nightclub from the outside so Sean and I decided to check one out during our first week in DanYang. As we walked in, several girls in cute little dresses greeted us with big smiles and fast Chinese. Unable to communicate our needs to just have a drink, we were refused entrance. It was after we got home and looked up on the internet what a KTV is that we discovered that it is where you sing Karaoke but they are usually filled with prostitutes that will come to your room and make your night a little more enjoyable. That explained a lot.

However, our night with our hosts did not involve any prostitutes, although they were definitely there, but we did sing Karaoke in our own little room with two professional microphones, a huge video screen the size of a wall, and a sound system that made our ears ring for hours. The video box was almost impossible to work so our hosts helped pick the songs.

I was shocked to see the Vice-Principle, Mr. Wong, stand up and belt out songs in English as well as Chinese. My host, Cynthia, had a lovely voice and had no problem singing all by herself. And then it was our turn. Now, many of you may not know but I LOVE karaoke but Sean and I have never sang together before, in fact, I don’t think that I have ever heard Sean sing…ever! Our first song was Endless Love… I know, cheesy, right? They loved it! Back and forth we went song after song. We sang Twist and Shout for them as we danced and they laughed hysterically and clapped till their hands hurt.

But it was Sean’s solo rendition of Desperado (that old Linda Ronstadt tune) that brought the house down. He sounded really great! We stayed for two hours and ended up having a wonderful time and were glad that after only eight weeks in China, we had finally found some Karaoke and learned more about eating in China.